When I finally decided to hard-wire my dashcam into my Toyota, I was mostly tired of seeing the bulky 12V charger wire draped across the windshield. I also really wanted to use parking mode properly, which only works when the camera is connected directly to the fuse box. If you’re in the same boat, I’ll walk you through exactly how I did it—and how you can too, without needing to be an electrician.
This guide works for most Toyotas (Camry, Corolla, RAV4, etc.), and I’ll explain things in a way that makes sense whether you’ve installed car electronics before or not.
Why Hard-Wire Your Dashcam?
Plug-and-play setups work fine, but hard-wiring gives you a few key perks:
- Clean install (no visible wires)
- Parking mode support (records motion while your car is off)
- Free up your 12V socket
Once I made the switch, I couldn’t go back. I got uninterrupted recording, better security, and no clutter in my cabin.
What You’ll Need
Here’s everything I used to get the job done:
- Dashcam with hard-wire kit (I used the VIOFO A119 with its HK3 hard-wire kit)
- Add-a-Fuse (Fuse Tap) kit – make sure it matches your fuse type (Toyota usually uses low-profile mini fuses)
- 10mm socket wrench (for grounding)
- Trim removal tool (optional, but helpful)
- Multimeter (for verifying fuses—optional but recommended)
- Zip ties or adhesive clips
Step 1: Plan the Wiring Route
Before pulling anything apart, sit in your car and plan how the cable will run from your dashcam (usually behind your rearview mirror) across the headliner, down the A-pillar, and into the fuse box, which is usually under the steering wheel.
If you’re like me, use a trim tool to slightly tuck the wire into the edge of the headliner and A-pillar trim. You don’t need to remove the trim entirely—just enough to slip the cable underneath neatly.
Step 2: Locate the Fuse Box and Choose Fuses
Most Toyotas have the interior fuse panel in the driver-side footwell. Pop the plastic cover off and look for a fuse diagram (often printed on the inside of the cover).
You need two fuse taps:
- ACC/Switched fuse – powers on the dashcam when the ignition is on.
- Constant 12V fuse – for parking mode when the car is off.
I used the cigarette lighter fuse for ACC and the door locks or dome light fuse for constant power. Use a multimeter if you want to confirm voltage behavior, or just Google a fuse chart for your Toyota model.
Then, plug each fuse tap into the corresponding fuse slot and make sure they face the correct direction (so power flows into your hard-wire kit).
Step 3: Connect the Ground Wire
Find a metal bolt near the fuse box—preferably one already being used as a factory ground. I used a 10mm socket wrench to loosen a bolt under the dash, attached the ground ring, and tightened it down.
Good ground = stable power. Don’t skip this.
Step 4: Tidy Everything Up and Test
I used zip ties to keep everything tidy under the dash and adhesive clips to run the cable up the A-pillar. I connected the cable to my dashcam and started the car—boom, it turned on. I turned the car off and waited a minute to check if parking mode kicked in. It worked perfectly.
Once confirmed, I put all trim pieces back in place.
Parking Mode Settings
If your dashcam has voltage cutoff settings (to prevent battery drain), I suggest setting it to shut off if the car drops below 12V. That way, you can leave parking mode on without worrying about draining your battery.
Final Thoughts
This install took me about an hour, and I’d do it again in a heartbeat. It’s one of the best DIY upgrades I’ve done—clean, functional, and just gives me peace of mind when parked in public. If you’re using a Toyota, chances are the process will be nearly identical.